On the eastern half of New Guinea Island lies the unspoiled republic of Papua New Guinea; Former British colony and UN Trust administered by Australia. Although granted independence in 1974, the economy of PNG remains firmly in the hands of Anglo-Australians. We last featured them in June 1994, though PNG is a constant on the Coffee Works varietals menu.
Slightly larger than California, and richly endowed with natural resources, Papua New Guinea has one of the most rugged and spectacular topographies on earth; Mountain peaks close to 4,000 meters (12,000 ft), active volcanoes, frequent earthquakes, annual rainfall exceeding six feet, and one of the world’s largest swamps. The official language of the 4 million inhabitants is English but most speak one of 715 indigenous languages, and Pidgin is common. Unfortunately, there is little arable land on which to grow food for the exploding population. Per capita income in 1991 was $800, more for the 14,000 small coffee farmers. PNG ranks 6th among Asian/Oceana and 19th in the world for total coffee production. As the chief agricultural product of the island, coffee represents 40% of total exports.
While the economy may lack luster, the coffee is decidedly stellar. 94% is high-grown Arabica species. Of this, only a third receives the quality designation "plantation", based on size, color, and absence of defects. The hand-picked fully-ripened cherries are processed by the wet method, which is preferred in warm, wet climates because it prevents over-fermentation of the cherries. Most of the crop is sun-dried by the grower. Sadly, not much of this tasty coffee finds its way to the US. Between them, Germany and Australia take 70% of the annual crop.
Papua New Guinea coffee is well-balanced, rich and fragrant: "one of the world’s ‘Grand Crus’". The rich, wild flavors and acidity are reminiscent of a prime Kenyan, or perhaps a washed Sidamo. This particular offering of peaberry is decidedly limited. After reviewing our COM shipment we liked it so much we immediately went back to the broker to buy more, only to find it all gone for the year.
What's A Peaberry?
A peaberry is produced naturally when one of the two seeds inside the coffee "cherry" fails to develop. Instead of two seeds, flat-sided from pressing against its twin, a peaberry grows one small round seed. Peaberries are observed to occur most often at the tip of a branch -- where they are thought to benefit both from the principle of apical development, receiving the primary supply of the plant's nutrients, and from receiving the nutrient share intended for two seeds.
Botanical mojo aside, older roasters preferred round coffee beans simply because they roasted more evenly in their spinning steel drums.
We are not botanists, and don't roast in hot barrels, but we generally like what the extra care in production brings to the taste of Peaberries.
Copyright 1999 by The Coffee
Works Inc, Sacramento, California. All Rights Reserved.
